Habitat Horticulture PNW

Food Forests for the Future

Posted on October 23, 2013 by habitatdana Leave a comment

Being an environmentalist and a native plant horticulturist/botanist, I encourage the planting of native plants to help restore and preserve the natural ecology of our beautiful Pacific Northwest. However, we must also balance the needs of people with the needs of wildlife. Food is a basic need of both. That is why I often recommend planting cultivated varieties of food plants as well as native species.

The above graphic is from permaculturenews.org.

A Food Forest, aka permaculture forest garden, is a planted garden or arboretum that mimics a woodland ecosystem but uses plants that produce edible fruits, nuts and vegetables. Fruit and nut trees are the upper level, while below are berry shrubs, and edible perennials and annuals. They are planted together instead of separating the trees into orchards and the berry bushes and vegetables into fields of single-species monocultures. Beneficial plants attract insects for natural pest management and enrich the soil by fixing nitrogen and adding mulch. “Together they create relationships to form a forest garden ecosystem able to produce high yields of food with less maintenance.” Another benefit of this type of gardening is that because of the diversity, it is not a disaster when 1 or 2 crops fail, whether because of weather, pest problems, or other reasons. The challenge, as in any garden landscape, is getting the “right plant in the right place,” with the appropriate amount of sunlight and water.

Historical hunter/gatherer societies depended on nuts, fruits, grains, and vegetables that women gathered. Their diet was supplemented by the meat that hunters brought home (once or twice a week, if they were lucky). With the advent of agriculture, people worked together to grow and preserve the food they needed.

Currently, many Americans are afflicted with diabetes, obesity and other diet-related health problems. We have an abundance of cheap, high-carb foods, with the added fat & sugar we crave along with chemical preservatives and color, flavor and texture enhancers. We are often duped by the latest diet fad or get contradictory information from doctors, nutritionists & the media. Although it is easier to buy packaged food off the grocery store shelf, eating less-processed, natural whole foods will likely be healthier for you and your family. You could even try home canning and preserving.

Nut trees and some fruit trees, however, because of their ultimate size are not well suited for backyard gardens. When I worked at Tacoma’s Wright Park, there were a couple of huge chestnut trees. Chestnuts are gathered by searching amongst the prickly husks that have fallen to the ground. It was often difficult to find nice, big nuts because people and squirrels were both competing for them. One local resident told me he would see people with flashlights searching at 1 or 2 in the morning looking for recently fallen nuts. The Black Walnut tree across the street was also popular with the squirrels. Fruit & nut harvesting could be another enjoyable recreational opportunity at local parks if appropriate tree species were planted. Hunting for and collecting natural foods can be fun for the whole family.

The Beacon Hill neighborhood in Seattle just broke ground on the “Beacon Food Forest” at Jefferson Park. A community urban farming project, it will include a traditional “Pea Patch” along with an Edible Arboretum, Nut Grove & Berry Patch. Neighborhood members will be able to harvest and preserve food for themselves and their families. I wish the Beacon Food Forest success and hope that they are able to equitably divvy up the harvest and will inspire other communities to create their own “Food Forests.”

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on November 7, 2012)

Posted in c) Permaculture & Vegetable Gardens

Houseplants in the Healthy Indoor Habitat

Posted on October 23, 2013 by habitatdana Leave a comment

Houseplants, left to right: Snake Plant, Banana Plant, Corn Plant (Draceana), 2 Peace Lilies and a Peperomia in back next to the window on the right.

Much of my interest in horticulture began with indoor plants. I liked being surrounded by a jungle of tropical plants and enjoyed taking care of them. The fact that plants in the home or office help us to be healthier and happier has been shown by several scientific studies.

Many of the materials used in the construction of our homes, offices and other indoor spaces contain toxic chemicals. Harmful chemicals also come in on our furnishings, computers, electronic devices, cleaners, and other everyday household products. Many of these chemicals volatilize into the air we breathe. These all contribute to what has become known as “sick building syndrome.” Indoor plants improve indoor air quality by actually removing many of these contaminants as well as airborne mold and bacteria.

In addition to sequestering harmful volatile compounds, plants decrease carbon dioxide levels and increase oxygen & humidity levels, helping to reduce fatigue, colds, headaches, sore throats, coughs, nausea, sore & itchy eyes, dry skin, and loss of concentration. Plants can even help to prevent allergies by building tolerance levels and immunity to allergens. All these benefits help us get a more restful sleep, too.

Plants that share our indoor space help our mental well-being. They help relieve stress, help us to be more productive, and just feel better all around. Cheerful flowers make you calmer and more optimistic. And just the act of caring for a living thing can help when you are depressed and lonely.

Indoor plants can muffle or absorb sounds, reducing distracting or annoying background noise. Plants with a lot of leaves such as Weeping Fig, Ficus benjamina, work best for noise reduction. Large indoor plants can also be used for screening.

When I worked at the Seymour Conservatory, we would often get patrons wanting advice on houseplants. A common one was: What can I grow with no light? My response to this query was: “try silk!” –Or– that if there is not enough light coming in from windows, supplemental lighting will be necessary.

The other most common reason for failure in growing houseplants is infrequent watering or overwatering. Many people water regularly about once a week. I always recommend checking the dampness of the soil before adding more water. The best way is to stick your finger below the top layer of soil; sometimes you can tell by the color of the soil or the weight of the pot.

The easiest “beginner” houseplant to grow is Snake Plant, Sansevieria trifasciata, also known as “Mother-in-law’s tongue.” Also fairly easy is Spider Plant, Chlorophytum comosum, Peace Lilies, Spathiphyllum sp., Peperomia species, Dragon or Corn Plants, Dracaena sp., Swedish Ivy, Plectranthus australis, and Wandering Jew, Tradescantia sp.

Succulents, such as many species of cacti, can be easy to grow if you have a sunny south or west window. Donkey’s Tail, Sedum morganianum, and Jade Plant, Crassula argentea, are easy to grow succulents. I also always keep an Aloe vera growing to treat burns and other skin ailments.

African Violets, Saintpaulia sp., brighten up my kitchen windowsill. The flowers are cheery and they bloom frequently.

Although most houseplants are tropical in origin, Piggyback Plant, Tolmeia menziesii, is a Pacific Northwest native that can be grown as a houseplant.

If you have small children or pets, it is a good idea to check on potential toxicity before you bring any plant into your home. The Humane Society has a good website to check on toxicity of each plant species: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/. Dumb Canes, Dieffenbachia sp., are extremely toxic and are best avoided.

A houseplant is a cheery gift for any occasion.

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on January 2012 as “Many benefits of indoor plants.”)

Posted in 6) The Indoor Habitat

Ethnobotanical Garden; People, plants and plant products

Posted on October 23, 2013 by habitatdana Leave a comment

A Cedar Longhouse in Ketchikan, Alaska

People rely on plants for many things. We use them for food, building materials, medicine, clothing, dye, cosmetics, in rituals, and more. Ethnobotany is a branch of anthropology that studies the use of plants by native peoples. Unfortunately, historically, western civilization has horribly mistreated many herbalists, usually women, who used their knowledge to benefit their community. Due to their position of respect and power, they were often looked upon with suspicion by church leaders and branded as witches. Conquering armies and colonists also had little respect for the knowledge of “primitive” native peoples.

Erna Gunther’s “Ethnobotany of Western Washington” was the first and is still an often used resource on the use of plants by Pacific Northwest natives. In the 1930’s, she interviewed both women and men. Women knew the food and medicinal plants; men knew the materials in nets, fishing gear, and woodworking. Another good resource today is the University of Michigan database of Native American Ethnobotany.

The northwest could be called the “berry capital of the world,” due to the preponderance of berry bushes. Native peoples ate berries fresh, dried like raisins, cooked, mashed and dried into cakes, or preserved in fats such as oolichan grease extracted from a small fish. The most important berries for eating were Salmonberry, Salal, huckleberries, Thimbleberry, Oregon Grape, Serviceberry, elderberries, and strawberries.

Camas Flowers

Bulbs and roots were also important foods; the most important was camas. Except for Salmon, no article of food was more widely traded. Bulbs were dug in the late spring and cooked in a pit, sometimes dried after cooking and cached in baskets in trees. Undercooked camas causes severe gas & flatulence, as members of the Lewis & Clark party painfully discovered; cooking breaks down the complex sugar, inulin, to fructose. The roots of Wapato was also cooked, dried, and eaten with fish.

Western Hazelnuts were readily available if a person could beat the squirrels to them. Native people that lived near Oregon White Oaks would soak acorns to leach out the tannins or they would bury them in baskets over the winter and eat them in the spring.

A “Culturally-modified” Cedar along the trail to Shi Shi Beach on the Makah Indian Reservation

The most important tree for native people was the Western Red Cedar, also known as Giant Arborvitae or “tree of life.” The wood was used for building long houses, totem poles, canoes, cradles, etc. The bark was made into clothing, mats, diapers, etc. Limbs were twisted into rope. Baskets were made from the roots. Alaska Yellow Cedar was used similarly by natives in BC and Alaska. Douglas Fir, Western Hemlock and alder were also used for making tools and for firewood. Yew wood, prized for its strength and elasticity, was used to make tools and weapons, particularly bows. Oceanspray, known as “Ironwood” in English, was used for tools and utensils; it was made harder by heating it over a fire and polishing it with horsetail stems.

A canoe bailer & berry-picking basket from Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge’s Cathlapotle Plankhouse Interpretive Display

Many plants were used in basketry and for making mats and rope including Vine Maple, willows, Red-twig Dogwood, Trumpet Honeysuckle, Beargrass, Slough Sedge, Cattails, and Tule or Hard-stemmed Bulrush. Large leaves such as Thimbleberry, Big-leaf Maple, and Sword Ferns were used as containers or to line cooking pits or drying trays.

A Tule Mat

Cascara bark has long been known as a laxative, willow bark a pain-reliever. Yarrow and Devil’s club, a relative of Ginseng, were both used for various medicinal purposes.

It is sad when knowledge of the cultural uses of native plants is lost and not passed on to younger generations—we need to thank ethnobotanists for preserving a treasure trove of historical plant knowledge and lore.

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on June 6, 2012)

Posted in b) Native Plant Gardening

Guerrilla Gardening and Community Garden Projects, it’s Bewildering!

Posted on October 23, 2013 by habitatdana Leave a comment

We’ve all walked or driven by neglected areas overgrown with weeds and littered with trash. Guerrilla Gardening, (AKA bewildering) is a term used for the unauthorized cultivation of plants or crops on vacant land. The goal is to beautify neglected areas and create oases of greenery within an otherwise ugly asphalt and concrete jungle. Today, there is even a faction involved in the Occupy Wall Street movement that is attempting to teach people to “Sow Seeds, not Greed.”

Although Guerrilla Gardening seems like a benign crime, it may be best to get permission from the landowner before carrying out a mission. The same M.O. can be used for community garden or senior projects:

1) Spot some local uncared for land. You can find them along sidewalks, between buildings, on road medians and more.

2) Decide whether the plot will need some preparation before planting. Will you need to remove weeds or trash? Will the soil need amendments? If there is no unpaved ground, perhaps you could plant up some containers.

3) Plan a mission. Arrange a day and time to do the work, who will assist you, and what you will need.

4) Determine what plants and/or design to use in your garden. Your choices will have a huge effect on its success or failure. Select impactful plants that will be beautiful throughout much of the year. A few annuals are okay for instant color, but perennials will endure. Choose appropriate plants for the light, moisture, and soil conditions. Select hardy, drought-tolerant plants that can thrive with intermittent care. Native plants are ideal because they are adapted to the local climate and enhance habitat for butterflies, birds, and other native wildlife species. Or, perhaps the community would benefit from food plants; fruit trees and/or berry bushes.

5) Arrange transportation – You need to get everything to and from the site.

6) Gather your materials: a) Trash bags or containers to remove trash and weeds from the site. b) Enough plants to fill in your plot. You can buy plants from stores, divide & collect from other sites, or start seeds at home. Well-rooted plants have the best chance of survival. Willows and Red-twig Dogwoods, however, can be planted as live stakes, cuttings of branches stuck directly in the ground. c) Tools – gloves, rototiller, wheelbarrows, hoes, shovels, rakes, etc. d) Soil amendments, fertilizer & mulches. Organic matter, such as compost, is almost always beneficial. Organic, slow-release fertilizers are best. Shrubs and trees benefit from mulching after planting. e) Water – Newly planted plants always need to be watered in, unless the weather is cool and rain is imminent. d) Signs to tell about the project and the plants.

7) Planting Day! Clear the land of weeds and trash. Prepare the soil for planting. Plant, fertilize water your plants. Clean the area before leaving. Leave signs or plaques to tell about the project and to encourage others in the community to help.

8) Maintain (water & weed) your garden or get a local volunteer to care for the plot. The biggest cause of failure is inadequate irrigation.

If you don’t have the time, money, or energy to do a complete garden makeover, seedbombs are an economical alternative. Made from a mixture of clay, compost, and wildflower seeds, they are designed to be thrown into abandoned sites. Or, better yet, just scatter some seeds—Just make sure you get a mix of native wildflowers seeds that does not contain noxious weeds.

Just a few colorful, cheery flowers enhance habitats for people and wildlife!

Posted in 4) Ecological Garden Designs

Mosses in the garden; good or bad?

Posted on October 23, 2013 by habitatdana 9 comments

Moss growing on my brick patio.

There are many moss-like plants. Sea Moss is actually algae; Reindeer Mosses are lichens; Clubmosses (Lycopodiums and Selaginellas) are vascular plants more closely allied with Horsetails; Spanish Moss is a bromeliad (related to Pineapples); Irish and Scotch Moss are in the carnation family.

True mosses, in the class Musci; include “true” mosses, peat mosses, and granite mosses. They are primitive “non-vascular plants,” meaning that they have no tissues for conducting water or nutrients such as the xylem or phloem in “higher” plants.

Plants that have no vascular tissue cannot grow large. They need to absorb moisture and nutrients from their surroundings. Because of this, like lichens, mosses are very susceptible to air pollution. They need to live in moist places during part of their life cycle. Mosses may be found on the ground, on rocks and cliff faces, near waterfalls, on rotting logs, and in bogs. Mosses or other plants that grow on trees are called epiphytes. There are about 700 species of “true mosses” and about 40 species of Sphagnum peat moss in our region.

Do you consider moss a pest? It may be–when it is growing on your roof–Just make sure that you use an environmentally-friendly, “least toxic,” product when controlling moss on structures.

Many people in their quest for a perfect lawn will use chemicals to kill moss. Proper management is a better strategy–Rake the lawn to remove thatch and moss, aerate it to make sure it drains freely and overseed to fill in bare spots. Irrigate adequately during dry periods to keep the grass healthy but do not let water puddle, follow a recommended fertilizer program, apply lime to keep the pH between 6.0-6.5, and mow grass at the proper height for the species. In shady areas, turfgrass grows poorly; other groundcovers may be more suitable—mosses, at least, are green!

A Moss Garden can be an attractive feature in a woodland garden. I saw a You-tube video that made it sound easy—all you had to do was acidify the soil! Mosses grow best at a pH of ~5.5. To try to encourage more moss, I tried a little experiment in my yard. After testing the pH of my soil, I endeavored to lower the pH a little more. The only products readily available for acidifying soil are aluminum sulfate (usually sold for making hydrangeas bluer), and elemental sulfur (often sold for treating fungal diseases). It was difficult to quantify the results. The amount of mosses varies dramatically through the seasons and unfortunately, the grass still survived. The plots treated with the aluminum sulfate, however, appeared to have a little more moss.

For the best success, you really should start with bare ground in a shady location, removing all the grass, weeds, leaves and debris. Next, scratch up the soil to loosen it slightly and moisten the soil. There are two methods for establishing moss in a new area. You can transplant entire clumps of moss to the new spot or make a “moss milkshake” to spread over a larger area by mixing clumps of moss with buttermilk or beer in a blender (using a few types of moss insures a better success rate). Just make sure to mist or water regularly and remove any leaves or debris that fall on the moss. These methods also work well for establishing moss on rocks, in between pavers, in bonsai, fairy gardens, or other special container gardens.

A Moss Garden is a great project for an environmentalist on St. Patrick’s Day! After all, is anything greener than moss?

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on March 16, 2011)

Posted in 4) Ecological Garden Designs

Grow California natives to prepare for Global Warming

Posted on October 16, 2013 by habitatdana Leave a comment

Redwoods are the world’s tallest trees. They live in the coastal “fog belts.”

We share many of our Washington native plants with British Columbia and Alaska, and/or Oregon and California. The ranges of some species extend to the Rocky Mountains; others reach across North America to the east coast. A few are circumpolar, found throughout the northern latitudes of Europe and Asia, too. Historical distribution, geographic features, climate, and competition all influence the current distribution of species.

Fossil evidence indicates that 50 million years ago the climate of the Pacific Northwest was warmer, much like the tropics of today. 15,000 years ago, there were huge floods as ice age glaciers melted. Changes in the earth’s climate directly influence the number and distribution of species. There have been many extinction events in the past 4.5 billion years; there will be more in the future.

Global warming is a concern due to its potential impact on human populations and the agricultural crops and livestock on which we depend upon for survival. No one can predict the ultimate consequences of climate change, but we should try to make smart choices regarding food security and limiting population growth. Hopefully, our children, grandchildren, and future generations will not have to fight, tooth and claw, for limited resources. – And be able to experience the beauty of the natural world–however changed it might be.

Golden Chinkapin, Chrysolepis chrysophylla

By planting a diversity of landscape plants, including those tolerant of warmer temperatures, such as California species, you may be creating a habitat that could be a refuge for many wildlife species so that they can survive climate change, too.

Coast Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens, and Giant Sequoia, Sequoiadendron gigantea, both grow well here in the northwest. Incense Cedar, Calocedrus decurrens, looks a lot like our Western Red Cedar, but with coarser branchlets and a narrower crown. California Nutmeg, Torreya californica, is a slow-growing conifer related to the yew with longer needles and a greenish to purple fruit.

There are many California oaks, Quercus sp., both trees and shrubs, including the “live oaks” (evergreen oaks). A related tree is the Tanbark Oak, Lithocarpus densiflorus; it has leathery leaves and acorns. The Golden Chinquapin, Chrysolepis chrysophylla, is an evergreen tree related to chestnuts.

Wild Lilac or Blueblossom, Ceanothus thysiflorus

The California Bay Laurel, Umbellularia californica, also known as Oregon Myrtle, is a tall evergreen tree with fragrant, lance-shaped leaves and wood used for carving. –Not to be confused with Pacific Wax Myrtle, Myrica californica, a fragrant evergreen shrub.

The California Buckeye, Aesculus californica, has fragrant, candelabra-like, cream-colored flower plumes. The California Sycamore, Platanus racemosa, is a large tree with maple-like leaves, and smooth, twisting branches. Silktassel, Garrya elliptica, has long greenish-yellow catkins in early spring; male plants have longer, more impressive catkins.

Greenleaf Manzanita, Arctostaphylos patula

California is home to most Manzanitas, Arctostaphylos sp., and Wild Lilacs, Ceanothus sp., both are mostly evergreen. Manzanita species vary from groundcovers to large shrubs. All have the characteristic urn-shaped white or pink berries, followed by red or brown berries. They are well-known for their red to purple peeling bark. Wild Lilacs also vary from low, spreading species, to upright shrubs. As the common name implies, most have powder-blue to deep violet-blue flower clusters (some are white).

Western Azalea, Rhododendron occidentale, has fragrant, white to pink blossoms. Spicebush, Calycanthus occidentalis, has brownish-red waterlily-like flowers with the fragrance of “an old wine barrel.” Western Redbud, Cercis occidentalis, has small, magenta flowers in early spring, followed by reddish-brown seed pods.

It may be difficult to find some of these plants—if you get any from Oregon or California, it is important to buy nursery plants that are certified free from “Sudden Oak Death Syndrome.”

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on June 16, 2010.)

Posted in b) Native Plant Gardening

Reducing Reliance on Polluting Power Tools

Posted on October 16, 2013 by habitatdana Leave a comment

As mowing season gets into full swing, we should consider the negative impacts of power garden tools on our environment as they pollute the air with exhaust, CO2 and noise!

I recently attended a lecture by acoustic ecologist, Gordon Hempton. The summary on the back cover of his book begins: “In the visionary tradition of Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring, One Square Inch of Silence alerts us to the beauty that we take for granted and sounds an urgent environmental alarm. Natural silence is our nation’s fastest-disappearing resource.” His lecture included recordings of the dawn chorus of songbirds; symphonies of frogs; water dripping, trickling, and thundering; and the amazing, deep vibrational hum of a hollow Sitka Spruce log being pounded by ocean waves.

Garden designers are often inspired by what they’ve seen (and heard) in natural places and attempt to recreate their experience. Along with appearance, we often consider fragrance and taste (when growing food) in our gardens, but motion, sound, and tactile sensations are design elements that are often overlooked in creating a beautiful garden.

I was reminded how, when I worked at Wright Park in Tacoma, the constant hum of leaf blowers in fall severely diminished my enjoyment of my otherwise favorite chrysanthemum floral display.

Lawnmowers, spin trimmers, edgers, leaf blowers have become standard tools for landscapers. All of which are used to keep lawns neat and tidy. I often encourage people to reduce or eliminate their lawns and replace them with native groundcovers if their only purpose is for aesthetics, especially in areas where no one will be walking (such as street medians!). A higher initial investment in time and money for planting and weeding may be required until groundcovers are well established. But I feel this is preferred over the time and energy it costs to mow turfgrass every week in the growing season. I have never used power hedge shears and also discourage planting hedges that require shearing.

It would be great if we didn’t have to use any power tools at all! Lawns, however, do make a nice play surface, and for people who have acreage, mowing is the easiest way of keeping down tall grass (making it easier to walk around) and for controlling blackberries and Scotch Broom. By planting eco-lawns, and not being so fussy, you might be able to get away with mowing only a few times a season.

Recently, while buying a new lawnmower, my husband and I debated the virtues of different models. I originally had thought to get the wimpy corded electric model. I really like my corded electric spin-trimmer. I don’t have to worry about messy gas or oil, being able to pull-start it, or batteries dying. Being a “Tim Taylor (Hoh, Hoh, Hoh),” power-tool kind of guy, he convinced me to get the more powerful, battery-powered mower. He was concerned that a corded electric mower would be too big of a draw on the batteries that store the power for our solar home. But after only a year or to the battery died so either I need to get a new battery or a different mower.

Small, gasoline powered tools, especially two cycle engines, which require you to mix oil with the gas, tend to be very noisy and are the most polluting. Electric power tools are much cleaner and tend to be quieter. Newer models are also more powerful.

For that next garden chore, decide whether it is really necessary to use a power tool. Old fashioned hand tools: rakes, hoes, hand cultivators, shovels, loppers, pruning saws, hand shears and a wheelbarrow are much more peaceful to use. Your neighbors may thank you!

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on May 26, 2010)

Posted in 3) Gardening Practices

Beware the Alien Invaders!

Posted on October 16, 2013 by habitatdana Leave a comment

Scotch Broom was originally introduced as an ornamental and for erosion control.

Invasive plants are non-native plants that negatively impact the natural ecology of an area by outcompeting native plants. Their presence affects the entire food web by depriving insects and other animals of food, cover and nesting sites normally provided by displaced native plants. Invasive plants may also adversely affect agriculture and other businesses important to our economy; as well as mar the beauty of our parks and natural areas.

People are the main dispersers of plants; plants are often introduced unknowingly as unnoticed seeds on shoes, clothing or baggage. Many are introduced purposefully for use as food, culinary or medicinal herbs, construction materials, or garden ornamentals.

Himalayan Blackberry, Rubus armeniacus, was introduced for its delicious berries.

The first line of defense against invasive species is education and prevention. The USDA, Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) conducts inspections at marine ports, border crossings and airports to prevent the introduction of pests, (insects, plant diseases, weeds, etc.), but it is not easily predictable which intentionally introduced plants will become a problem.

Early detection, monitoring, and control are essential to prevent spread. Avoiding reintroduction is also important by prohibiting the sale of known invasives and educating eager gardeners to refrain from buying those plant species. Butterflybush, Clary Sage, Fennel, and Baby’s Breath are examples of noxious weeds that are often still available to purchase. Many wildflower seed blends also include noxious weeds.

English Holly, Ilex aquifolium, can sometimes be found in “pristine” wilderness.

There are two basic types of invasive plants of concern to landscape gardeners: Plants that invade disturbed habitats and plants that invade forests. Common in disturbed habitats are Himalayan and Evergreen Blackberry, Scotch Broom, Gorst, and Japanese Knotweed. In forests, the worst offenders are “the 3 Englishes:” English Ivy, English Holly, and English Laurel—after eating the fruit of these species, birds often transport and deposit the seeds in otherwise pristine wilderness areas!

Manual or mechanical removal (pulling, cutting or mowing), although hard work, is the best method of control. Not long ago I noticed a hillside of blackberries that had obviously been sprayed with an herbicide—this hillside was right across the street from an estuary—I cringed to think of how much of the herbicide ended up in Puget Sound!

Blackberries can be mowed with a brush cutter or you can hire some goats to eat them (goats bred for meat are best; they may, however, eat your favorite garden plants and the bark off of desirable trees!) Japanese Knotweed can be mowed as well—the roots need to be grubbed out for both species, or cover the area with a sturdy landscape cloth to suppress regrowth. Either way, to quote Madeye Moody: “constant vigilance” is needed to totally eradicate them!

I go on “yellow flower patrol” every spring to cut out Scotch Broom. Plants devote a lot of energy into flowering and fruiting—this is the best time for cutting them– before they go to seed! They are also easiest to see when they are in full bloom. If neatness is not a worry, it is best to just leave the cut plant on top of the stubs to suppress new growth. To discourage recolonization of a cleared area by seedlings, amend the soil with biosolids and replant with native shrubs and grasses.

Some people paint the cut stubs of these woody species with an herbicide to prevent resprouting.

For English Ivy, dig out as much as you can. At the very least, cut the vines that are climbing trees. By keeping it close to the ground, you can prevent it from maturing and producing fruit.

Check out the complete list of noxious weeds at the Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board –and then “rally the troops” to eradicate the invaders!

Posted in 3) Gardening Practices

Efficient Irrigation, Water in the Landscape; No blue, no green

Posted on October 16, 2013 by habitatdana Leave a comment

The most common reason for failure in gardens and landscapes is inadequate irrigation (or conversely overwatering). There are many options for irrigation systems from low tech to high tech; from cheap to expensive; and from most wasteful to most efficient. But, however you plan your garden, plants need water! Even native plants and drought-tolerant plants need supplemental irrigation the first few seasons until they are well established.

The method or system you choose to employ or install to keep plants alive and healthy will depend on your wallet, your time, and your commitment to water conservation.

The simplest, but most time-consuming and back-breaking method is carrying old-fashioned watering cans or buckets to each seedling, sapling, transplant, or container plant. Although it may not be a preferred method by many, it is a viable option for those who cannot, or do not want to invest in a more expensive system, especially when irrigation is only needed temporarily during the establishment phase of new landscapes. Sometimes trucks or wagons can be adapted with water tanks to bring water to where it is needed.

If you can reach plants with a hose, hand-watering becomes easier. I prefer using a watering wand with just a breaker at the end which allows a maximum volume of water with a gentle shower (not those fancy nozzles with variable spray patterns!). With a wand, you can also often avoid getting water on flowers and leaves, applying water directly to the soil where it is needed. Not only is this irrigation method soothing and pleasurable, it allows a person to take the time to inspect and enjoy each plant and to vary the amount of water according to each one’s needs.

A sprinkler attached to a hose is the next low tech option. Several different styles are available. The simplest type force water through holes in the top and are available in different spray patterns. Oscillating sprinklers water larger rectangular areas by forcing water through holes in an arm creating a fan-shaped curtain; which then oscillates from nearly horizontal on one side, to vertical, to nearly horizontal on the other side, depending on the adjustment. Rotary sprinklers similarly use the pressure of the water to spray a circular pattern. Some decorative sprinklers add a bit of whimsy to the landscape. All of these sprinklers can easily be moved to where they are needed. Travelling sprinklers that move on their own are also available for lawns.

Pulsating sprinklers or “Rainbirds” can apply a large volume of water very quickly and their spray pattern is easily adjusted. Although they are often sold on spikes, they are best mounted on a wide base, because as the soil becomes soft and moist, the force of the pulsating action causes them to tip over. Newer gear-driven sprinkler heads work similarly without the jarring pulsating action.

Timers may be purchased which vary from the simplest, which must be started manually but allow you to set a time period after which it will shut off; to more expensive programmable models that allow you to set start and stop times over several days.

The problem with sprinklers, however, is that a lot of water is often wasted, either due to overspray or evaporation loss. Soaker hoses are another low tech option. Most are made from rubber, but can be made of different porous materials, they allow water to ooze or slowly drip to the ground where it is needed.

Installing an automatic in-ground irrigation system requires a bigger investment, but is great for people with limited time. The best systems have moisture sensors so they will not turn on at their appointed time if it has rained or is raining.

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on June, 15, 2011)

Posted in 3) Gardening Practices

Grow a “Greener” Lawn or “Eco-lawn”

Posted on October 14, 2013 by habitatdana 5 comments

Not long ago I was at a local hardware store with my husband and a friend, who my husband often helps with home repair & maintenance. The friend wanted my advice on a pesticide for his lawn. My initial response was that since I try to be mostly organic, I am not up to date on pesticides. I, personally, always cringe when I walk down that aisle knowing that many of those chemicals will end up in our streams and in Puget Sound.

This friend had some brown patches in his lawn and thought he needed something for crane flies. I pondered this for a second then asked him: “How do you know you have crane flies?” I explained that proper diagnosis is essential before applying any pesticide. Not only is misapplying pesticides bad for the environment, it wastes money. He agreed to have me come back to his house to investigate. I cut out a square of his turf and flipped it over—there was no sign of crane fly larvae or their “leatherjacket” pupae.

So what was causing the brown spots? He said it always seemed to happen during the hottest part of the summer. He uses a reel mower and always cuts the grass very short. We keep trying to tell him he needs to “cut it high and leave it lie.”—but his trimmer even at the highest setting only leaves about an inch of the grass blade remaining. That is not much photosynthetic surface for a plant to be able to maintain itself and develop a good root system. Hot summer days puts the grass under even more stress. We try to convince him to use his rotary mower and let the grass grow higher so it has a chance to develop a better root system. –After more discussion, we also figured that some of the brown spots may be due to frequent visits by their daughter’s dog.

I further recommended that he scratch up the dead grass and buy some grass seed to sow in the dead areas; but he was worried that the new grass would be a different shade of green.

Lawns and turf help create great places for playing outdoors and provide a safe place for toddlers to explore. What kid doesn’t love rolling down a grassy hillside? Can you recall the feel of running barefoot in a lush, green lawn? It is estimated, however, that homeowners use 10 times more pesticides per acre than farmers, which is not good for people, pets or wildlife. Gas-powered lawn equipment adds to air and noise pollution. An estimated 10,000 gallons of precious water is applied to suburban lawns each year. Lawns also provide little benefit or ecological diversity for local wildlife.

Fertilizing lawns with natural organic, slow-release fertilizers helps to limit excess nitrogen and phosphorus from leaching into groundwater and avoid algal blooms downstream. Tagro is great for lawns especially after aerating.

An “Eco-lawn” contains shorter, drought-tolerant grasses and wildflowers.

Unless you want a play surface, I usually recommend planting native trees, shrubs and groundcovers and/or a ”food forest” and garden that will provide fresh fruits & vegetables. The aesthetic suburban ideal of a perfectly manicured, weed-free lawn is just not environmentally sustainable. An “eco-lawn” is a good alternative for those who still want a lawn. It is a mixture of shorter, drought-tolerant grasses and flower seed that does not have to be watered, mowed or fertilized as often.

The Tacoma-Pierce County Health Department has some excellent publications on natural yard care. Their bulletin Natural Lawn Care discusses grass selection, mowing, fertilizing, watering and more…

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on September 12, 2012 as “Growing a ‘greener’ lawn doesn’t mean you have to use pesticides.”)

Posted in 4) Ecological Garden Designs

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