Archive for Author habitatdana

Landscaping with Native Plants

Posted on by Leave a comment

 

My Favorite Native Plant, Red-Flowering Currant, Ribes snaguineum.

My Favorite Native Plant, Red-Flowering Currant, Ribes sanguineum at YMCA Camp Seymour..

   What is a native plant?  Native plants are plants that grew naturally in a region prior to possible introduction by settlers during territorial expansion.  They were not brought here from other countries or regions either intentionally or accidentally.  Depending on the scope of the discussion native plants can have a wide definition, including the entire United States or a narrower one including only those native to a particular region.  For our purposes, we will concentrate mostly on those native to the northern Pacific Coast from sea level to the Cascade Mountain Range (northern Oregon, Washington, British Columbia and southern Alaska).

    Why landscape with native plants?  Native plants are better adapted to soils and climate.  They usually require less irrigation and less maintenance.  With some exceptions, native plants have fewer disease problems.  Native plants attract native wildlife.  Insects and other invertebrate pests become less of a control problem if there are enough birds, bats and snakes in your habitat to keep them under control.  Native groundcovers can discourage the spread of invasive weeds.  A natural landscape can also be left alone to regenerate itself through natural systems of pollination, seed dispersal and germination. Native Plants visually “fit” better in local landscapes than exotics; and can be used to create enchanting, woodland landscapes.  Many are very attractive.  Some native plants, such as the Red-Flowering Currant, have been reintroduced after cultivated varieties were developed in Europe.

     If your goal is to improve the ecology of your landscape, then a large percentage, at least 80% or more, of it should be natives.  It only makes sense to provide the food, cover and nesting plants with which local animals have co-evolved.  Although some exotic plants may be highly attractive to animals, they are the “candy” that can be useful to entice them to check out your habitat.  Whereas, the native plants are the “staples” that will keep the animals coming back or staying, including your habitat as part of their territory!  You do not need to be a purist and can enjoy a few of your favorite exotics as long as they are not invasive or will otherwise ultimately cause problems.  I usually like to plant my summer annuals in containers so they remain separate and easier to maintain.

    Purchasing Native Plants:  Many retail nurseries now sell some native plants, but they are often limited in the quantity and species available.  It is best to find a nursery that specializes in growing and selling native plants.  Because some native plants do not transplant well, you will have better success with smaller plants that have been grown in containers.  A list of native plant nurseries can be found at the Washington Native Plant Society Website.  Many nurseries have websites where they post what they grow and what is currently available, but it is best to call first to verify availability.  A reputable nursery will only sell container-grown materials or will let you know if the plants were wild-collected legally with a permit.  Many county conservation districts hold annual native plant sales, where larger quantities of small bareroot plants can be obtained relatively inexpensively.

The Native Plant Garden at Point Defiance Park in Tacoma, Washington

The Native Plant Garden at Point Defiance Park in Tacoma, Washington

 

    Collecting Plants in the Wild: Before collecting plants in the wild it is important to get permission from the owners of the property.  Plant collecting in National Parks is strictly prohibited (permits are issued only for educational or research purposes).  In National Forests, you need to check with the local ranger to find out what can be collected and whether you need a permit.  State parks generally have strict guidelines that, for the most part, only allow plant removal for maintenance purposes.  Whenever collecting in the wild, it is important to be conscientious and only collect where large populations exist and collect only what you can use.  The collecting of seeds or cuttings for propagation is preferred over digging the entire plant.  Some plants, such as most of our native orchids, are better left alone.  Because of complex symbiotic or semi-parasitic relationships, these plants will not survive transplantation.  The best places to collect native plants are sites that are soon to be cleared for development.  There are native plant salvage organizations that use volunteers to go in and rescue plants from these sites.  It is a good way to claim some plants for your own landscape!

    Seed collection and preparation:  Seeds should be collected at the appropriate time, when pods, cones or fruit have ripened sufficiently.  Pods, capsules or cones can be collected just before seeds are released– further drying will often cause them to open so the seeds are easily shaken out and collected.  If the seed capsules are already open and still contain seeds, the seeds can be shaken into a bag.  The preparation of seeds contained in fruit is more time-consuming.  The fruit needs to be macerated (softened and mashed).  Sometimes it helps to allow the fruit to begin to rot in a bag or to soak in water.  To extract the seeds from the fruit, gently mash the fruit to separate the pulp from the seeds in a bowl of water.  Most viable seeds will sink to the bottom and can be separated by swirling the pulp and water mixture and successive decantations, leaving the seeds on the bottom of the bowl.  Some seeds, such as Salal, will float and even resist the surface tension of the water, and need to be skimmed off the surface of the water.  (Sometimes it is easier just to mash the fruit and spread it, pulp and all, onto the growing media.)  For some species, seeds from fruit should not be allowed to dry out but should be planted immediately or stratified as necessary.  For plants that produce nuts, such as hazelnut, it is often difficult to find ripe nuts before squirrels or other animals.  Sometimes nuts are produced that have no viable seed inside, therefore, before going to the trouble of planting these, the nuts should pass the “float test.”  After placing the nuts in a pail of water, only plant the ones that sink to the bottom.  You may crack a few open to check to make sure the test worked properly.

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on Sep 16, 2009)

Posted in b) Native Plant Gardening

Xerophytic Gardening—reducing irrigation requirements

Posted on by Leave a comment

    Ever wonder why we have predominantly evergreen forests in the Pacific Northwest?  Whereas, at our same latitude in the east, New Brunswick, Canada has mostly deciduous trees that exhibit brilliant colors in autumn.  Most of the world thinks that it rains all the time in our region; but one of our secrets is that we have dry summers.  In regions with summer rains, trees that lose their leaves in the winter, have all summer to photosynthetically replenish their energy.  Evergreens, however, are adapted to be able to photosynthesize whenever conditions are favorable.  Therefore in the Pacific Northwest, evergreens that have limited moisture in the summer can grow at other times of the year. 

    We call our mild, maritime climate, with relatively warm, wet winters and cool, dry summers, a Winter-rain or Cool Mediterranean Climate.  Most other Winter-rain climates are warmer, as found in parts of Chile, South Africa, and Australia.  For plants that may be better adapted to drier northwest gardens, horticulturists look for plants from these regions.

    Although native plants are obviously the best adapted, plants from other winter-rain regions also do well in our drier landscapes.  From Chile: Escallonias have glossy evergreen leaves and small pink flowers; Pernettyas, (Gaultheria mucronata), come in different varieties with shiny berries ranging from white, pink, red, purple to nearly black—all with a metallic sheen; Darwin Barberry (Berberis darwinii) has fountain-like growth with showy yellow flowers and blue berries favored by birds; its spiny stems make it and excellent barrier shrub.  From South Africa, Cape Fuchsia, (Phygelius capensis) has loose clusters of red-orange flowers. From Australia, some of the hardier Eucalyptus trees such as the Cider Gum (E. gunnii) may be successful in certain microclimates.  Several familiar landscape plants come from the Mediterranean including true Cedars (Cedrus sp.), Mediterranean Heaths (Erica x darleyensis hybrids), Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo) and the ever-popular Lavender (Lavendula sp.)

    Plants adapted to withstand dry periods usually have thick, waxy leaves.  Hairy leaves provide protection against drying winds.  Gray or silvery foliage reflect some of the sun’s rays.  Look for these characteristics when choosing “drought-tolerant” plants.

    Many regions such as the Southwestern U.S. are facing severe water shortages.  Some conscientious, environmentally responsible citizens that are eliminating water-guzzling lawns and replanting with natives have had to battle homeowner associations because the new look of their landscape, didn’t fit the accepted standard! Currently, in the northwest, we rarely have water restrictions—but we may find them occurring more frequently in the future.

    Add compost to soil to increase water-holding capacity. Mulch to keep the soil cooler and moist longer.  Reduce turf areas by planting native groundcovers or try an “eco-lawn” that requires less irrigation.

     In order to irrigate efficiently, group all water-loving plants.  Create focal points by planting colorful annuals in small areas or in containers.  To determine how long to irrigate, measure how long it takes to fill a tuna can 1 inch deep, take an average of several places, closer and farther from the sprinkler head (different soil types may require more or less).  It is better to irrigate deeply and less frequently to encourage plants to grow deep roots.  Watering during the cooler, early morning hours prevents loss due to evaporation.  Soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems deliver water just where it is needed.  Some of the newest sophisticated irrigation systems have moisture sensors; some can even tie into the Internet and make adjustments using information from local weather reports.

    Remember that any new landscape will have to be irrigated the first 1-3 seasons in order to establish good root systems!

 (This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on Aug 5, 2009)

Posted in 4) Ecological Garden Designs

Landscape Design for Energy Conservation

Posted on by Leave a comment

    As energy costs continue to increase we need to look for various, imaginative and logical ways we can reduce the amount of energy we consume.  Often overlooked is how trees and shrubs surrounding our homes can affect the temperature of our living spaces.  Trees and large shrubs can even modulate the intensity and quality of light entering through windows.  We can decrease the amount of fuel used in lawnmowers, edgers, spin trimmers, leaf blowers and hedge trimmers and the air and noise pollution they create, by reducing or eliminating high maintenance turf areas and hedges.

    Computer models used by the Department of Energy predict that just by planting trees in the proper places you can save 25-30% in heating and cooling costs.

     In our climate, keeping your southern exposure open for the greatest solar heat gain is the most important way to reduce heating costs.  We built a greenhouse on the south side of our house to provide passive solar heating as well as for propagating and growing plants.  We angled the glass so that it would be perpendicular to the sun’s rays at noon on the spring and fall equinoxes.  On sunny days, I can just open the door to the greenhouse and allow the heat in—I often do not even need to turn on the furnace on cool, but sunny fall or spring days! 

    For people that live in windy areas, planting a windbreak can also reduce heating costs.  Most of our winds originate in the west from the Pacific Ocean, but every microclimate is different due to varied landforms. The most effective windbreaks are evergreens, with branches that grow close to the ground.  They are best planted at a distance from your home that is 2 to 5 times the mature height of the trees.  For a more interesting, and natural-looking design avoid a single-species—”soldiers in a row” hedge, instead, try a mixed species planting!

    Foundation plantings also help to insulate your home by creating dead air spaces.

    For cooling, one or more deciduous shade trees on the west side of your home can make a big difference in your comfort during the hottest part of the summer.  For maximum benefit, the crown of the tree should shade your house, especially any windows during the hottest part of the afternoon.  I used a sun chart for our latitude to determine that on July 22nd, at 2:30 pm– the sun would be 60 degrees west of true south at an angle of 50 degrees from the horizon.  Therefore, the best position of a shade tree would be at an angle of 60 degrees west of south, from the point where you want the most shade on your house.  The distance should be about ½ to 2/3 the mature height of the tree, perpendicular from your house (if it lies on a north-south axis).  For example, a Red Maple that grows to about 60 feet should be planted 20-30 feet perpendicular from the house or about 25-35 feet along the hypotenuse of the triangle from the spot you want shade.

    Trees are nature’s air-conditioners.  Most (except for some desert plants) are inefficient in the use of water.  As trees draw water up though straw-like xylem cells and use it in the process of photosynthesis, they must open small pores (stomata) in their leaves to take in carbon dioxide, and release oxygen.  During this gas exchange, water vapor is lost to the outside air.  This process, called transpiration, produces a cooling effect.

    With the careful design of your landscape, you can save money and help the environment by reducing your family’s carbon footprint!

 (This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on Aug 26, 2009 as Work on your Landscaping to Help with your Energy Efficiency in your Microclimate.)

Posted in 4) Ecological Garden Designs

Why have a Rain Garden?

Posted on by Leave a comment

    The Puget Sound was one of the featured waterways recently covered in the PBS Frontline special “Poisoned Waters.”  Unfortunately, I missed the program, which aired the evening before “Earth Day.”  The Frontline website emphasized that although Puget Sound may look pristine and beautiful on the surface, underneath many chemicals are severely impacting marine wildlife and the food web.  In the past, the biggest polluters were big industrial companies.  Today, most of the pollution comes from small commercial and residential developments; much of it from seemingly innocuous sources such as beauty products, medicines, and household cleaning products that are flushed into our sewers and storm drains.

    A Rain Garden is one of the strategies now being used in the field of “low-impact development” (LID), along with permeable paving, rainwater collection systems and Living Roofs.  Rain Gardens are specially designed to filter pollutants and reduce the amount of water that runs off into storm drains and roadside ditches.  Having a place for rainwater to go may also reduce damage caused by flooding after severe storms.

    The first step to building a Rain Garden is to determine the best locations in your yard by observing where water naturally flows and testing the soil to find out how well it drains. Check out any county or city requirements before you begin–especially for new construction.  Many local governments are starting to require the installation of Rain Gardens for new construction projects.  Also “Call before you dig” to make sure there are no underground utilities at the site.

    The second step is to plan the size and shape of your Rain Garden.  By calculating the square footage of impermeable surfaces such as driveways and roofs, you can determine the percentage of rainwater that will be held or absorbed, depending on the size of your Rain Garden and how well your soil drains.

    To build your Rain Garden, you will need to excavate between 18-30 inches of soil.  If existing soil does not have too much clay, you may incorporate compost and reuse it; otherwise you may need to purchase an appropriate soil mix.  Replace enough soil so you leave about 6 inches of depth for ponding.  Create an entry for the water, making sure that any pipes are appropriately sloped.  Provide a rock-lined overflow.

    Although fall and winter are generally considered to be our best planting seasons, it is recommended to plant a Rain Garden in the summer so that rainwater does not turn your project into a mucky mess.  Select plants for 3 wetness zones.  Native plants are a good choice and are likely to be drought tolerant in the summer.  After planting, mulching helps keep the soil moist, adds organic matter, discourages weeds, and prevents erosion.

     Your Rain Garden should be irrigated the first 2-3 summers to encourage healthy root systems.  Reapply mulch to any bare areas.  Make sure the inlet and outlet remain clear of debris.  Do not apply fertilizers or pesticides; the soil mix should provide adequate nutrients. 

     For more information on Rain Gardens, tours & workshops check out 12,000 Rain Gardens.   A good guidebook is the Washington State University’s Rain Garden Handbook for Western Washington Homeowners. It is downloadable as a PDF.

    By building a Rain Garden, you will create a beautiful garden that not only reduces the amount of pollutants in our watersheds but also helps restore habitat and attract wildlife, such as frogs and birds, to your yard!

  (This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on May 13, 2009 as Why have a Rain Garden in Washington?)

 

Posted in 4) Ecological Garden Designs

Green or “Living Roofs”

Posted on by Leave a comment

    Are you thinking about putting a new roof on your home?  Or perhaps you have a garage or other out-building that needs a new roof.  You may want to consider installing a Green, or “Living Roof.”    We were intrigued by the idea and created one on our cabin.

    A Green Roof provides many benefits.  It can provide increased energy efficiency by adding extra insulation to buildings.  By having one less dark surface absorbing the sun’s rays, and with the addition of transpiring plants, you can help reduce the “heat island effect,” that causes increased temperatures in urban areas.  The growing media and plants absorb water, decreasing the amount of water run-off to storm drains.  By planting a diversity of flowering plants, your Green Roof will attract birds, butterflies and other insect pollinators, thereby creating a charming microhabitat.  Finally, your Green Roof can provide a pleasant view for those who look down upon it.

    There are some important questions to consider before you decide to build a Green Roof.  Most importantly, will the structure withstand the weight of the plants, media, water and a snow load?  Some structural reinforcement may be necessary– you should consult an engineer to be sure.  If the slope of your roof is steep, special frames need to be constructed to prevent slippage.   For slopes less than 2 degrees, adequate drainage is a problem.

    The first step in the actual construction is to build a containment frame with drainage outlets on the lower edges.  Next you will need a waterproof/ root-proof membrane.  (We purchased a pond-liner on “Craig’s List.”)  It is extremely important that you are careful not to make holes in this material and do a good job sealing seams.  For roofs with less than a 10-degree slope, you will need a drainage layer and a filter layer (to prevent soil from clogging the drainage layer).   Next is the growing media.  To limit the weight load, it is recommended that 75-90% of the media is inorganic, such as pumice or expanded clay.  We tested the weights of various mixes and ended up using a mix of 40% lava rock, 40% perlite, 10% compost, and 10% coconut fiber (+organic fertilizers).  The depth (deeper =heavier!) of your growing media will determine what you will be able to plant.  At depths of 2 inches or less, you will only be able to grow mosses and sedums.  At 2-4 inches you can plant short, drought tolerant grasses, wildflowers, and small bulbs.  At 4-8 inches, you can plant taller species and even small hardy shrubs. 

    The biggest expense is the plants and growing media constituents—for us it was the perlite (we kept buying out all the local Home Depot stores!).  I planned ahead and grew most of our plants.  Your costs increase dramatically, if you have to purchase plants and/or pay for the labor to install it.

    There are many resources on the web such as greenroofs.com and livingroofs.org.  A good book to check out is “Green Roof Plants: A Resource and Planting Guide” by Edmund and Lucie Snodgrass.  One thing to keep in mind is that these resources are from other climates.  When deciding on plants to include in your plan, you should choose ones that will thrive in this climate.  I tried to stick mostly with beach, prairie and subalpine natives, and several varieties of sedums, but I also planted various bulbs and scattered miscellaneous herb seeds.

   It was a great joy, last summer, to visit the roof and see the busy activity of the bees and butterflies visiting flowers on our living roof!

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on Mar. 18, 2009 as A Green Roof can Increase Efficiency.)

Feature Photograph: My Living Roof in 2006, newly planted; then in 2008 and 2012. (It looks very different at different times of the year–different flowers blooming from early spring and throughout the summer!)

         My Living Roof –plant species list (Phase 1-west side)

Plants:

Yarrow                                                   Achillea millefolium

Nodding Onion                                     Allium cernuum

Chives                                                    Allium schoenoprasum

Pearly Everlasting                                Anaphalis margaritacea

Snapdragons*                                      Antirrhinum majus

Sea Thrift                                              Armeria maritima

Red Paintbrush                                    Castilleja miniata

Large-flowered Collomia                   Collomia grandiflora

Tufted Hairgrass                                  Deschampsia cespitosa

Showy Fleabane                                  Erigeron speciosus

Oregon Sunshine                                  Eriophyllum lanatum

Roemer’s Fescue                                 Festuca idahoensis ‘Roemeri’

Beach Strawberry                                                Fragaria chiloensis

Blanket Flower*                                  Gaillardia x grandiflora

Common Flax*                                   Linum usitatissimum

Spring Gold                                           Lomatium utriculatum

Lupines                                                  Lupinus sp.

Grape Hyacinth*                                 Muscari armenicum

Sea Blush                                              Plectritis congesta

Silverweed                                             Potentilla anserina

London Pride Saxifrage*                   Saxifraga x urbium

Different colored sedum varieties*  Sedum sp.

Hens and Chicks*                               Sempervivum tectorum

Lime Thyme*                                      Thymus x citiodorus ‘Lime’

Sticky False Asphodel                        Tofieldia glutinosa

& misc. bulbs* from a friends yard!

Seeds** direct sown:

English Daisy*                                     Bellis perennis

Godetia                                                  Clarkia amoena

California Poppy                                 Eschscholzia californica

Western Blue Flax                               Linum lewisii

Sweet Alyssum*                                  Lobularia maritima

California Desert Bluebells                Phacelia campanularia

Poppies*                                                Papaver sp.

Violets*                                                 Viola sp.

Posted in 4) Ecological Garden Designs

Horticulture provides food for body and soul

Posted on by Leave a comment

 

Volunteers at the Native Plant Nursery at Glacier National Parks

Volunteers at the Native Plant Nursery at Glacier National Park

When I tell someone I am a Horticulturist, I often have to explain what that is. Most people know that Botany is the study of plants, so I often tell them that horticulture is the applied science of botany.  Horticulture comes from the Latin hortus “garden” and cultūra “cultivation.” Whereas agriculture (agri-=acre or field) usually refers to large-scale cultivation of single species crops such as grain, horticulture usually refers to gardening on a much smaller scale and the growing of a wider variety of crops.

Wheat field in Eastern Washington, an agricultural crop.

Wheat field in Eastern Washington, an agricultural crop.

   There are many different specializations within the field of horticulture that generally can be grouped into two main categories – edibles and ornamentals.

    Olericulture is the production of herbaceous vegetables which includes:  Sweet corn, Greens such as spinach, lettuce, & celery; Cole crops – cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower; Root crops – beets, carrots, radishes; Bulb crops – onions, garlic, leeks; Legumes – beans, peas, lentils; Cucurbits – melons, squash, cucumber; and Solanaceous crops – tomatoes, peppers, potatoes.

091

Chives, Allium schoenoprasum, is the only allium native to both the old & new worlds. It can be found in Alaska.

    Herbalists grow plants for flavor, fragrance or medicinal purposes. Herbs are often included in the vegetable garden or grown in a special herb garden. They may also be incorporated into the ornamental landscape.

  

An apple from my dad's photo collection.

An apple from my dad’s photo collection.

  Pomology, although most specifically applies to the cultivation of pome fruits (apples, pears), it is often used more generally to include stone fruits (cherries, plums, peaches, apricots, almonds) and every other tree fruit, nut or berry. 

Grapes from my dad's photo collection.

Grapes from my dad’s photo collection.

Viticulture (Viti– = vine) is an even more specialized field usually applied to growing grapes.   

    Ornamental Horticulture includes:  Arboriculture, the evaluation, care, maintenance and pruning of trees; Floriculture, the production of floral crops including cut flowers and potted gift plants; Greenhouse & Nursery management, the propagation, production and sales of plants; Landscape Architecture, the art  of landscape design; and Landscape Horticulture, the planting, care, and maintenance of landscape plants.

   Forestry is often allied with horticulture. It is the growing and management of timber crops. Other plants, such as bamboo and grasses & stems for weaving may also be grown for the useful materials they provide.

   The need for a secure food source caused many primitive societies to give up the nomadic “hunter-gatherer” lifestyle and adopt a more sedentary life to plant and tend food crops. The traditional “family farm” or larger estate often incorporated both animal husbandry and the growing of crops. It was critical for survival to grow and preserve enough food for the whole community and their animals. The ownership of land became synonymous with wealth which needed to be defended from plunderers. 

    Sometimes in the quest for wealth, we are more interested in “cash crops.” It is often forgotten that workers and their children, need a healthy diet that includes fresh fruits and vegetables. In some places, indigenous peoples have had to give up traditional foods and now rely too heavily on imported rice or corn. Many people need to be reeducated on how to grow fresh fruits and vegetables for their families and how to prepare them for inclusion in their daily diet.

   Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs“Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs” ranks the most important human needs in five levels. The 1st is physiological needs, which includes breathing, water, food, clothing, shelter, and sleep.  The 2nd is Safety: security of body, employment, resources, family, health, & property. The 3rd is Love & Belonging: friendship, family and intimacy.  The 4th is Esteem: achievement, confidence and respect.  The 5th is Self-actualization: creativity and striving to reach one’s full potential. In theory, each fundamental need must be met before a person’s energy and passion can fully attend to a higher level. These are all we really need to be happy, not the material things that we buy to try to make us feel good—Money really “can’t buy happiness” after all our most basic needs are met.

    The science of horticulture can do more than teach us how to grow the food that nourishes our bodies.  It can be used therapeutically for our physical and mental well-being. Nurturing living things makes us feel good and encourages us to learn even more about plants and the garden ecosystem. It also fulfills higher level needs to artistically create beautiful gardens within which we can cocoon ourselves in visual and fragrant splendor.

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on Dec 7, 2011)

Posted in 1) Why Garden Ecologically?

Green Has Always Been My Favorite Color

Posted on by 2 comments

    We hear the word, green, a lot lately, as our country is beginning to focus more on new, “green technologies”, “green jobs” and is working toward a goal of a “greener economy.”  Being a committed environmentalist, I am excited about the new interest in sustainable and renewable energy and materials.

    Gardening should be the “greenest” occupation around, but in fact, many people adhere to landscaping practices that are actually harmful to the environment.  on this website, I plan to discuss many “green” garden design concepts and maintenance techniques that help to create healthier, more ecologically-friendly habitats for people and for wildlife. 

    Some of the topics I will discuss include two of the newest design concepts.  Living Roofs, also known as green roofs, are just what, the name implies, a roof is prepared and planted with carefully selected plants.  Living roofs are especially valuable in urban areas, where greenspace is limited.  Rain Gardens are specially designed systems to reduce the amount of water run-off from a property.  The goal of a Rain Garden is to avoid the pollution of our watersheds by reducing the amount of potentially contaminated water that is directed down storm drains, to sewage treatment facilities and to rivers, lakes and oceans.

    Other design concepts include, “Low-Maintenance Gardening,” designs that require less time and work and reduce reliance on air and noise polluting power equipment.  “Xerophytic Gardening,” uses plants that require less irrigation.  Landscape designs for energy conservation can make a huge difference in the cost of heating and cooling buildings.  “Permaculture” is a way of integrating food production into your landscape, working with natural systems and using sustainable methods.  “Native Plant Gardening” and “Wildlife Gardening” are the best ways to restore the ecology of a landscape. 

    The biggest challenge is to get people to change their aesthetic ideals.  I cringe when I walk down the pesticide aisle at the hardware store, knowing that many of these chemicals will end up in local waters.  Reducing Chemical Use in the garden is, perhaps, the most important thing one can do to prevent contaminating the food web.  It is a question of priorities, –is a perfect lawn or a perfect rose worth the risk of poisoning our planet?  I am not a strict “organic” gardener but any chemicals I do use, I use sparingly.

    I try to tactfully encourage “neat-freaks” to give up their sterile, geometric landscapes and embrace a richly diverse, more natural-looking landscape.  Years ago, when I worked at the Seymour Conservatory in Tacoma, sometimes, when we changed the floral display, there would not be very many plants actually blooming.  We would look back at our design with dismay, disappointed that it was not very colorful. But, then we would look again, with renewed appreciation, turn to each other, smile, and exclaim that “green is a color!”  All it takes to appreciate the beauty that surrounds you is a change in how you look at things; a new, fresh perspective!

–To quote a famous frog “It’s not easy being green,” but if you make a commitment to a greener future, you and your children, grandchildren and many generations to come will reap the benefits!

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on Feb.18, 2009)

Feature Photograph: Sky Bressette at the Fountain Plaza at Seattle Center.

Posted in 1) Why Garden Ecologically?

Balancing human needs with ecological preservation

Posted on by Leave a comment

 Seattle Skyline   Habitat loss is the biggest cause of species decline on our planet.  Human activities are the major cause of habitat destruction.  No other species on this planet changes the landscape to suit their needs to such a degree.

    It is easy to blame people who are cutting down tropical rain forests in South America or people who are looking to farm or graze their animals on preserves set aside for wildlife in Africa.  We need to recognize that some people are just trying to survive the best way they know how.  The answer lies with education, especially of women– to reduce exponential population growth, to make people realize and understand the impact they are having on earth’s limited resources and in preserving or relearning traditional food production practices.

    The Mesopotamian King Gilgamesh cut down the legendary Cedar Forest to build a great city at the dawn of civilization 4500 years ago.  And after several millennia of exploitation, only tiny remnants of the famous Cedars of Lebanon, Cedrus libani, forests survive today. Western Civilization has since continued to cut down forests, deplete agricultural lands, and other natural resources, and then move on to greener pastures—often brutally displacing native populations, relegating them to marginal land, enslaving them to work in the fields for a cash crop or in mines or sometimes even committing genocide, consciously (or unconsciously through the spread of diseases).

     Unfortunately, much of our economy is based on greed, the desire for wealth and the lifestyle of consumption.  Many people are envious or fascinated by the “lifestyles of the rich & famous.”  Shopping is often a form of entertainment.  Ads bombard us, telling us we need the next new gadget.  Consequently, some of our best farmland is now covered with warehouses and distribution centers to house imported goods.

    Land is constantly being cleared for new housing developments, shopping centers, and other businesses.  Many local governments do require developers to set aside a certain percentage of the land and to replant landscapes afterwards.  But oftentimes, not much thought is put into these new landscapes in regards to habitat restoration, functionality, maintenance requirements and how long it will take for replacement trees and shrubs to achieve the size of the ones that were removed.

    Instead of abandoning the old and encroaching more into wild lands, perhaps we could  restore and revitalize urban centers–Forgo new construction in favor of repairing and remodeling the old, including replanting with more natural landscapes.  It does no good to rue the past and blame our ancestors harshly. We should not judge them outside their time period and culture.  We can try to correct past mistakes and plan better for the future.habitat choice

    We need to realize that we are part of the natural world and that we can create landscapes that will not only be aesthetically-pleasing but can harbor a rich diversity of life as well.  Many people will find it difficult to change their landscape “ideal” from neat and tidy manicured lawns to one that is attractive in a more natural, less-controlled way.  We can work with nature by thinking of the needs of other creatures as well as people and be a little tolerant if a few of our prize plants get nibbled on if we realize that other creatures need to eat and that each organism has a place in the web of life.  Natural landscapes are more interesting due to increased biological diversity.  Children and adults can delight in finding frogs, snakes and pill bugs in their own backyard!

    Ecology literally means the study of “home;” whereas, economy is the management of “home.”  It makes sense that we use what we learn about our environment in order to better manage it along with our own basic needs.?Neodesha, Kansas, ca. 1915; I believe the young girl in this photograph is my grandmother, Alice Cornett.

Photo (ca. 1915). I believe the young girl in this photograph is my grandmother Alice Cornett along with her brothers and her father, John Cornett. He was a tenant farmer in Neodesha, Kansas.

Posted in 1) Why Garden Ecologically?

A Legacy of Gardening, My dad, a Master Gardener

Posted on by Leave a comment

My father, Dean Kelley, passed away on June 5th 2012. It was because of his interest in horticulture, that on a whim, I changed my major in college to horticulture. I have come to realize that so many of my values, interests and passions mirror his.

Just prior to his death, I started working on a biography of his life. While going through old photos of places that we lived, I noticed that there always were newly planted trees in the front yard, although we usually moved before the trees matured. A Facebook post I saw recently could have applied to him: “A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in”—a Greek Proverb. My dad planted both shade trees and fruit trees—like a modern Johnny Appleseed.

After he retired, my dad became a Master Gardener in Pierce County. The WSU Master Gardener program was originally designed to relieve the County Extension Agent from being swamped by gardening questions. The idea was to train hobby gardeners to answer basic horticultural questions. In return for training, WSU Master Gardeners are required to volunteer at the Master Gardener Office, Community Plant Clinics, Demonstration Gardens, and other outreach educational programs. Because many horticultural professionals also sign up for the program, they created a more expensive non-volunteer track. For those interested in this program, applications can be found at:  http://county.wsu.edu/pierce/mg/Pages/default.aspx. It is best to apply early. They get a large quantity of applications and cannot accept all that apply.

I knew many Master Gardeners when I worked at the Seymour Conservatory.  Many were retired and gave their time answering questions, and sharing their gardening experience. They, like my dad, were special people who provided a valuable service to their community.

My dad grew roses, rhododendrons, apples, blueberries and grapes on his small lot on Highland Golf Course. After he helped my brothers and I buy our first homes, he would give us trees, shrubs & vines to add to our landscapes. My oldest brother, a teacher, now a school administrator, got his doctorate in horticulture—his kids would bemoan being slaves to their dad’s orchard dream-but now he gives them trees for their own yards. My other brothers also grow fruit and make cider & wine. I earned a master’s degree in horticulture and although I specialized in ornamental and native plants, I continue to plant fruit trees, as well as grow a vegetable garden. I have a couple of blueberry bushes that came from my dad’s yard, a Hollywood plum tree he bought for me, and some grapes from cuttings of his grapes. Every harvest reminds me of him.

My dad grew up in the depression. It was always important to him to have money in his wallet. Providing for his family was of paramount importance. I think that growing fruit was an extension of ensuring food security for his family, with the added bonus of anticipating the pleasure of consuming nature’s candy–sweet, fresh fruit, and the pride in knowing you grew it yourself.

Now it is time to pay it forward—teaching younger generations to tend the earth that nurtures us.  In Gone with the Wind, Gerald O’Hara tells his daughter: “Do you mean to tell me, Katie Scarlett O’Hara, that Tara, that land, doesn’t mean anything to you? Why, land is the only thing in the world worth workin’ for, worth fightin’ for, worth dyin’ for, because it’s the only thing that lasts.”

(This article was first published in the Peninsula Gateway on Aug 29, 2012)

 

Posted in 8) Gardening Legacy
Recent Entries »