Complex historical interactions of climate, soils, pollinators,\nseed disseminators, and herbivory on native flora created the great forest\necosystems of the Pacific Northwest. Ecologists call our region the \u201cWestern\nHemlock Zone.\u201d The idea is that barring any type of disturbance, long-lived\nWestern Hemlock trees will come to predominate as shade-tolerant young trees\ngrow up to eventually replace other trees such as Douglas Fir. Open areas are\nusually caused by disturbances such as fire, windfall, flooding, logging, etc.,\nbut soils may play a part, too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sunset Western Garden Book calls our coastal climate zone in\nthe Puget Sound Region \u201cMarine Influence along the Northwest coast.\u201d We have\nwhat is called a Cool Mediterranean Climate; relatively warm, wet winters and\nrelatively cool, dry summers. People are often surprised to find out that\nsummers in the Seattle area are usually dry. This is what helps to make\nWashington \u201cthe Evergreen State.\u201d Other regions have rain in the summer. which\nwould usually be considered the growing season. But when water is limited, plants\nare unable to grow. Having evergreen leaves make it possible for trees and\nshrubs to photosynthesize whenever temperature and moisture are suitable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most of our native deciduous trees and shrubs grow in\nmoister areas near wetland habitats, which could be swamps, bogs & marshes;\nseasonal ponds; and lacustrine (along lakes), riparian (along rivers),\nestuarine (where river meets the tide), or seashore habitats. These wetland\nareas are especially important for wildlife. Deciduous plant species are more\nlikely to need occasional supplemental irrigation in landscapes. As an\nadaptation some native plants such as Red Alders and Indian Plums may lose some\nleaves in late summer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Our native soils are mostly glacial till, mixtures of clay,\nsand and gravel deposited by advancing & retreating glaciers. Soils in our\nlandscapes can be very diverse depending on the history of the site regarding\nthe accumulation of biomass, biotic (worms, microorganisms, etc.) and human\nactivity. The physical properties of soil affect fertility, water retention and\ndrainage. Traditional gardeners usually strive to create an ideal loamy soil.\nEven for a wild garden, it may be necessary to amend the soils in your\nlandscape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

*When we are thinking about using native plants, we still\nneed to keep in mind what is necessary or ideal for plant growth. When\nselecting plants for your site it is important to take into consideration the\nsoil characteristics, how much moisture will be available to the plant, and the\namount of sun or shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In her WSU extension bulletin, \u201cAre Native\nTrees and Shrubs Better Choices for Wildlife in Home Landscapes?<\/a>\u201d Linda\nChalker-Scott said her \u201cliterature review revealed that with few exceptions,\nthe native status of trees and shrubs had no impact on wildlife biodiversity.\u201d\nShe argued that \u201cwildlife will adapt to new food and habitat sources as they\nbecome available.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is true, that just as humans adapt to new environments,\nso can many species of wildlife.  Some creatures,\nhowever, may have a more specialist relationship with the plants with which they\nco-evolved, especially pollinators adapted to collect from more specialized\nflowers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

By planting native species, we can also avoid the introduction\nof non-native species which may be wildly popular with native wildlife, such as\nthe highly invasive, Himalayan Blackberry. Another consideration is that birds\ncan transport non-native seeds from landscapes to distant natural habitats. We\noften can find non-native plants such as English Holly, Laurel and Ivy growing\nin forests.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I don\u2019t dispute the science, but I would still argue that it\nis better to use native species when possible. Some people are more purists and\ntry to go 100% native, but I think 80% or so is a good goal. Also, to reduce\nyour carbon footprint, you may want to grow some of your own food plants.\nBlueberries, raspberries and Asian pears are some of the easiest to grow. You\ncan allow wildlife to share in your bounty, too!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You just need to be careful to choose appropriate plants for\nthe intended location. If there are no appropriate natives to fulfill a certain\nrequirement, then you can start looking for appropriate non-natives. For\nexample, if you need a smaller tree, you might want to try a Japanese Maple. Or\nif you need a smaller evergreen, you may look for some cultivated conifer\nvarieties.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whether you want a wild natural habitat or a more formal\nlook, it is important to do some planning to determine which plants are likely\nto be successful and fulfill the goals that you have.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

• Plant Selection & Design: <\/strong>I always start out by thinking about the site in question and creating a wish list, keeping in mind how many plants I might need and the budget. I am a horticulturist, not a landscape architect, so am not very good at drawing things out.  I usually just have a general idea in my head and place plants out once I get them.<\/li>
• Right Plant, Right Place: <\/strong>As I mentioned above, selecting plants for their sun, shade, and moisture requirements is critical for success, Ultimate size needs to be considered. Large trees such as cottonwoods, conifers, alders, etc. may not be appropriate for a small yard.<\/li>
• Special Goals: <\/strong>You may have special goals that you are trying to achieve in your landscape such as attracting wildlife (birds, butterflies, etc.), providing food, screens, erosion control, deer resistance, etc.
  • To create a wildlife friendly habitat<\/strong>, you need to provide food, water, cover and places to raise young. Plants that produce showy flowers, berries and nutritious seeds, will attract pollinators, birds, mammals, other creatures and even their predators.<\/li><\/ul><\/li>
  • Aesthetic Design Elements: <\/strong>We all want our landscape to be beautiful. Basic design elements to consider are focal points, scale, form, texture, color, balance, fragrance, movement.<\/li>
  • The 4^{th<\/sup> dimension<\/strong>: It is important to recognize that landscapes are dynamic, constantly changing. When planning our landscape, we want to try and visualize change through time–the seasons, years, decades, centuries\u2026! Avoid trees or shrubs that will get too big for their location.<\/li>}
  • Set out plants: <\/strong>Start with largest plants to create the \u201cframework.\u201d We can always add more understory plants as time and money allows. Then plant following established planting guidelines. Irrigation will be necessary, at least for the first 1-3 years.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

    There are many native trees and shrubs that have proven themselves as outstanding performers in home landscapes. Here are some favorites:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Alaska Yellow Cedar, Callitropsis (Chamaecyparis)\nnootkatensis<\/em>, <\/strong>grows moderately\nslowly to 80 feet or more. It is often used in plantings close to commercial\nbuildings; best in sun or part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Mountain Hemlock, Tsuga mertensiana<\/em><\/strong>, <\/em>is an attractive, slower-growing evergreen tree. It generally only gets\n20-30 feet in gardens; best in sun or part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Pacific Wax Myrtle, Morella (Myrica) californica, <\/em><\/strong>is our best\nevergreen shrub for screening. It can grow 10-30 feet tall and wide but is\noften kept smaller by trimming or shearing into a hedge. It fixes nitrogen in\nassociation with the bacteria, Frankia sp.; best in sun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Vine Maple, Acer circinatum,<\/em> <\/strong>has long been recognized as an outstanding\nplant for landscapes. It is a shrubby tree and can grow to 35 feet tall. Fall\ncolor ranges from orange, scarlet to yellow. It grows well in sun or shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Red-twig or Red-osier Dogwood, Cornus sericea (stolonifera<\/em><\/strong>), <\/strong>is usually grown for its red winter stems and attractive fall foliage. <\/strong>It is native throughout much of the United States and Canada. Many cultivated varieties have been developed; some dwarf varieties, some with yellow twigs, some with variegated leaves. The species generally grows 7-9 ft. spreading to 12 ft. or more. It likes moist areas and grows in sun or part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Saskatoon Serviceberry, Amelanchier alnifolia<\/em><\/strong>, <\/strong>is also native across much of the U.S and Canada. It has attractive\nflowers and edible blue-black berries. It grows to about 20 ft. tall; best in\nsun or part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    American\nCranberrybush, Viburnum opulus var. americanum; <\/em><\/strong>while not common\nin our area, this is our version of the European Cranberry Bush, which includes\nthe Common Snowball. It has outstanding fall foliage, beautiful white lace-cap\nflower clusters and bright red berries. It is best in sun or part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Pacific Ninebark, Physocarpus capitatus<\/em><\/strong>, <\/strong>has attractive white flower clusters, reddish dry seed capsules, and peeling brown bark. It grows to 8 ft. tall; best in sun or part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Pacific Rhododendron, Rhododendron macrophyllum, <\/em><\/strong>is our native\nrhododendron. It has evergreen leaves and large pink flower trusses. It grows to\n10 feet or more; best in sun or part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Western Azalea, Rhododendron occidentale<\/em><\/strong>, is native to Oregon and California, and is\nvery popular with gardeners. It has large fragrant flower trusses, white to\npale rose, with or without a yellow blotch. It is a parent to many cultivated\ndeciduous azalea varieties and grows 9-15 ft.; best in sun or part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Indian Plum, Oemleria (Osmaronia) cerasiformis<\/em><\/strong>, <\/strong>is our harbinger of spring. Its white flower clusters and bright spring\ngreen leaves are a welcome sight after a dreary winter. It grows to about 15 ft;\nbest in part shade or shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Red-flowering Currant, Ribes sanguineum<\/em><\/strong>, <\/strong>is one of our most popular natives. Its pink flower clusters attract\nRufous Hummingbirds that are migrating up from Mexico in the spring. It grows\nto about 9 ft; best in sun or part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Tall Oregon Grape, Mahonia aquifolium<\/em><\/strong>, <\/strong>has evergreen, often bronzy, holly-like compound leaves. In the spring,\nit has fragrant, bright yellow flowers and is attractive next to Red-flowering\nCurrant. Its berries make a great jam! It grows 6-8 ft.; best in sun or part\nshade.  Its smaller cousin, Low Oregon\nGrape, Mahonia nervosa is a good choice for shady spots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Pacific Mock Orange, Philadelphus lewisii<\/em><\/strong>, <\/em>has beautiful\narching sprays of white fragrant flowers in spring or early summer. It grows to\n9-10 ft; best in sun to part shade. It is perfect for forest edges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Snowberry, Symphoricarpos albus<\/em><\/strong>, has unusual white berries and is a versatile\nshrub which tolerates many different conditions. It grows 6-8 ft; best in sun\nto part shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Salal, Gaultheria shallon, and Evergreen Huckleberry,\nVaccinium ovatum, <\/em><\/strong>are two of our native evergreen staples. Both have\nedible berries and attractive evergreen leaves, which are used for greens in\nthe florist trade. They both are slow to establish but can eventually get 3-6\nft. or more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Kinnikinnick\nor Bearberry, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, <\/em><\/strong>is our best native groundcover for sun (or\npart shade). It has pinkish-white bell-shaped flowers and red berries. The\ncommon name Kinnikinnick is a native word for a plant that was smoked. Both\nscientific names mean \u201cbear-grape or bear berry.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Summary: <\/strong>When using native plants in the landscape, like with any garden plant, it is important to select plants that are likely to be successful and fulfill the goals that you have. With climate change coming upon us, we also may want to consider drought-tolerant species that are native south or east of here. Wildlife species may need to find favorable habitats if they are forced to migrate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

    The new edition of Gardening with Native Plants of the Pacific Northwest,<\/a><\/em> 3rd Edition<\/a> by Arthur R. Kruckeberg and Linda Chalker-Scott is now available. (They used 14 of my photos.) Dr. Kruckeberg sat in on many of our seminar classes when I was getting my Master’s Degree at the University of Washington. He often would say that we can\u2019t forget about the native plants and people east of the Cascades!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    *Plant Selection is the Key! Complex historical interactions of climate, soils, pollinators, seed disseminators, and herbivory on native flora created the great forest ecosystems of the Pacific Northwest. Ecologists call our region the \u201cWestern Hemlock Zone.\u201d The idea is that barring any type of disturbance, long-lived Western Hemlock trees will come to predominate as shade-tolerant<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5,1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1136"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1136"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1136\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1170,"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1136\/revisions\/1170"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1136"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1136"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/habitathorticulturepnw.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1136"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}